A Guide to Hand Rearing Orphaned Puppies and Kittens

Newborn puppies and kittens are very fragile and hand rearing them is time consuming, difficult and not always successful. If possible, a 'foster mum' is the best alternative to their natural 'mum' ie a dog or cat feeding a small litter of a similar age to the orphan, provided she is willing to accept a strange puppy or kitten. Your vet may be able to help or you can try a rescue centre.

In the case of a kitten, it would be wise to take a blood sample to test for Feline Immunodeficieny Virus and Feline Leukaemia Virus before introducing it to the 'foster cat' and possibly exposing her and her family to infection. Your vet can discuss this with you. If a foster parent cannot be found then it is up to you to keep the orphan fed, warm and clean.

FEEDING
You will need some milk replacer specifically for puppies and kittens and either syringes or puppy/kitten feeding bottles - all are available from the veterinary surgery. You will need to sterilise all the feeding utensils, as for a baby, using a sterilizing fluid eg: Miltons which is available from chemists or supermarkets. Follow the instructions carefully.
This needs to be done until the orphan is weaned. The milk formula must be made up exactly as instructed, don't be tempted to make it more concentrated as you will only upset the orphan's digestion.
Puppies and kittens under 2 weeks should be fed every 2-4 hours, while kittens of 2-4 weeks can be fed every 6-8 hours. The milk should be warmed to 95-100f (35-37.8 degrees C) before feeding - the same temperature as the skin of the human forearm. While feeding, especially by syringe, give small amounts at a time as very young puppies and kittens do not have a well developed gag reflex and can easily inhale the milk. The weaning of puppies and kittens can begin at 3-4 weeks of age. Start by encouraging them to take their milk from a saucer (sterilised) at 3 weeks and after a few days start adding puppy or kitten food - either mix in a little tinned or soak dry kibble and then stir it in. They should be fully weaned by 6-7 weeks. Please Note: It is important to worm puppies and kittens at 3,5,7 and 12 weeks of age. Your vet will advise you.

WARMTH:
Under normal circumstances a puppy or kitten's mother and littermates will help it maintain it's body heat. An orphan will need a constant heat  source to prevent hypothermia. A carefully monitored heat pad could be used or a hot water bottle wrapped in a towel so it feels hand warm to the touch. During the first 4 days life an orphaned puppy or kitten should ideally be maintained in an environmental temperature of 85-90f (29.4-32.2 degrees C). This can be reduced to 80f (26.7 degrees C) by the end of the day 8th day and to 75f (22.2 degrees C) by the end of the forth week. If you have a litter to rear, the temperature can be a little lower as they will keep each other warm.

HYGIENE:
The puppies or kittens ano-genital area needs to be stimulated after feeding to cause urination and defecation. The natural mother would usually do this with her tongue, so try to imitate this action with a damp tissue and then gently clean and dry the genital area (plain water will do).
Very young puppies and kittens will perform after almost every feed - urination at least. The faeces should be the consistency of toothpaste. If they go more than 24 hours without defecating or their faeces seem hard, telephone the surgery. If they get diarrhoea, just give cooled boiled water at the next feed. If the diarrhoea lasts more than 24 hours, telephone the surgery - neonates will dehydrate very quickly.

Use a 'Vet bed' (available from vets and petshops) or towels for bedding as these wash very easily and the orphans claws or limbs shouln't become entangled in them.
Keep any hot water bottles/heat pads well covered, neonate skin will easily burn.

Healthy contented puppies and kittens will sleep approx 70% of the time for the first 2 weeks of life, eat during the other 30%!

If they cry relentlessly or fail to suckle, you should telephone the surgery as they can deteriorate very quickly.

Finally - GOOD LUCK - We hope to see you and your charge when he/she reaches 9 weeks and needs a first vaccination!